City and Country Food Deserts
A bit of a rewrite and the addition of more information. Poverty and ruralness have been with us forever. Food deserts were discovered around the late 1980s. The later has a connection to the former. Prior to 1980, small towns and poor neighborhoods could generally count on having a grocery store, perhaps even several. It has changed since 1980 due to consolidations and profitability. (The term food desert was coined in 1995 by a task force studying what was then a relatively new phenomenon.)
Urban environments suffer a similar fate. Tens of millions of Americans live in low-income communities with no easy access to fresh groceries. The general consensus is these places do not have what it takes to attract and sustain a supermarket. They’re either too poor or too sparsely populated to generate sufficient spending on groceries. Or the harder part is they can not overcome a racist pattern of corporate redlining.
Food Deserts in America: Understanding the Impact on Communities with Limited Food Access – The Annie E. Casey Foundation
What Is a Food Desert?
Neighborhoods with limited food access (or “food deserts”) are geographic areas. Residents in these areas have few to no convenient options for securing affordable and healthy foods. Especially access to fresh fruits and vegetables. Neighborhoods with limited access to high-quality food can create extra, everyday hurdles that make it harder for kids and families to grow healthy and strong. For example, when people have better access to supermarkets, they are more likely to have nutritious diets and lower rates of chronic disease.
Redefining Food Deserts: Evolving the Language Around Food Access
Experts, researchers and government agencies are increasingly recognizing the limitations of the term “food desert” when referring to neighborhoods with limited food access. Among the limitations identified, the term.
- suggests the primary problem is about the physical environment, such as distance to food, rather than intentional decisions that have led to limited grocery stores in low-income communities;
- neither acknowledges nor captures other aspects of the issue, such as food affordability, store hours and cultural acceptability of food;
- does not acknowledge food quality and the high prevalence of unhealthy foods in convenience stores in urban, low-income neighborhoods; and
- is deficit-oriented and doesn’t take into account the ability to get groceries online or other resilient food access strategies, such as farmers markets and community gardens.
More descriptive, thoughtful language can help promote solutions that go beyond the built environment and address underlying issues. At the same time, since “food desert” is still the most commonly used short-hand phrase, this post uses that term along with more descriptive language.
Where Are Food Deserts in America?
States with the greatest share of residents living in low-income, low-food access areas (formerly called “food deserts”) in the United States? Nine of the top 10 are located in the South, according to a 2025 analysis of historical data from the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Food Access Research Atlas. Mississippi ranks first, with 30% of its residents living in these neighborhoods, followed by 29% of New Mexico’s population and 26% of Arkansas’s population. States in the Northeast [including New York (4%), Rhode Island (5%), Vermont (5%) and New Jersey (5%)] are among the least likely to have residents living in areas with limited food access.
Large metropolitan areas? Thirty-two percent of Memphis residents in were classified as living in low-income communities having limited access to healthy food, according to a 2021 USA Facts analysis of the same USDA data. No other large metro city had a greater share of its population affected.
One local nonprofit is fighting back with a 44-foot refrigerated trailer. Called The Mobile Grocer, this mini supermarket-on-wheels travels to different neighborhood food deserts. It arrives packed with affordable groceries (including fresh produce) and helps to feed thousands of Memphis residents each week.
San Antonio was home to the nation’s second-highest rate of residents living in low-income communities with insufficient food access (26%, tied with Riverside, California). The city’s Healthy Corner Store Program is partnering with small neighborhood corner stores to address this issue. Today, the program spans a network of over 45 stores working to fill in San Antonio’s grocery gaps.
Generally speaking, limited access to food is more common in:
- communities with higher rates of poverty, whether rural or urban;
- neighborhoods with greater shares of people of color; and
- rural American Indian or Alaska Native communities.
A 2022 study examined U.S. census tracts by race and ethnicity, poverty level and access to quality food stores. It found high-poverty, non-white (particularly Black) neighborhoods continue to have the least amount of close neighborhood access to supermarkets.
A 2023 analysis found. In the most remote parts of the country with American Indian and Alaska Native populations were heavily over-represented in areas with limited supermarket access.
“Grocery Stores in Low Income Areas and Small Communities,” Angry Bear

You can’t get everything into a short post, but an examination of the business potential in areas considered food deserts would be a good companion piece.
Eric:
There is another link to an earlier commentary below. This is a follow up also.
I grew up in the Midwest and my neighborhood had many mom & pop grocery stores. One of the things that characterized them was “credit.” Your mom could send you to the store for something with no cash. The grocer kept a tab for all of his regular customers.
terry:
Very true. Many of them were called candy stores which had a glass display case showing bars of candy and also penny candy. You could pick up Butternut or Wonder Bread there or glass containers of milk. Many were strategically located on the way to schools which we would walk to. Schools such as Hawthorne Elementary School . . . again in Chicago. Now called Hawthorne Scholastic School. It had a big school yard in back of it where you could easily scuffle a knee. Field house and a major set of swings.
Candy stores were a big deal in neighborhoods as they did provide more than just candy and were short distances away. Mom and Pop stores were another name for them.
I read that one possible cause is that the law preventing food distributors from making special deals with preferred customers stopped being enforced in the 1980s. It’s still on the books, so, in theory, food distributors can offer lower prices for larger orders, but large chains now often make special deals not based on volume. This squeezed out a lot of smaller supermarkets and smaller supermarket chains.